Diamonds are with us for a very long time but they
were not always coveted for jewellery purposes. Even in the Middle Ages people
knew that diamonds are very hard and this persuaded the rulers to wear them to
show they are as tough as diamonds.
The
Table Cut
Previously the diamonds were cut in a way known as
the ‘Table Cut.’ This was a simple cut and was square type in nature. However, the
aristocracy started liking the diamonds and gemstones more as a symbol of
beauty and wealth. This is when the new cuts began to emerge mainly to fit
jewellery designs. This created the revolution which gave us the modern
brilliant cut.
A
Diamond Standard
Some people say that someone in Venice named Vicenzio
Peruzzi had created the first brilliant cut around 1680. However, there is no existence
of Vicenzio Peruzzi on further studies at all.
If we talk about written proof we get David Jeffries
who was a renowned English jeweller in 1750. He wrote a book where he described
his ideal brilliant cut. He described it as having high angles and somewhat
rounded corners. This design would make the diamond long but his designs were
not implemented immediately as at that time diamonds were sold by weight. Cutters
wanted to keep as much weight as possible and good symmetry was also difficult
due to hand cutting.
Re-cut
the diamonds!
The brilliant shape and symmetry was gaining
popularity rapidly and in the meantime mines in India got depleted in the 18th
century. At this time the old and ugly table cut diamonds were re-cut into
smaller brilliant cut diamonds. However since these were not very perfectly cut
in the first place the cutters made brilliant cushion cuts from these diamonds mainly
rather than round pieces.
Diamond Factories
All of the problems of hand cutting brilliant cuts
were gone when the diamond industry adopted industrialization. Steam power was
used to cut the diamonds now instead of horses. A steam-powered bruiting
machine was invented by Mr. Henry D. Morse which created perfectly rounded
diamonds every time. This saved a lot of time and labour costs. Most factories
in Europe took up this technique and used machines to create round diamonds. These
huge supplies of round diamonds were known as old European diamonds.
Despite industrialization cut was still not perfect
and advance of industrialization brought the idea of a perfect sparkle on the
board. Frank Wade and Marcel Tolkowsky found out how this can be achieved and
they gave us the brilliant cut we see today. The ideal brilliant cut has 57
sides and has the correct angles to reflect all light out of it.
This brilliant cut is now the best and costliest cut
possible for a diamond. This is mainly because of its tremendous sparkle and
round shape. Jewellers find it easy to fit round stones in jewellery.
The brilliant cut diamond is the most popular
diamond because of its round shape that can easily fit many jewelry designs. The
compact design makes it also great value for money.
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