In the Mughal era royalty not only promoted food, architecture,
clothing, and art they also supported jewellery. It was in this era that
jewellery-making had a special importance and was highly supported. This era
gave birth to jewellery studded with chunky gemstones and enamelled motif
designs. The royal family and people of high ranks displayed their jewellery in
turbans to toe-rings. The pattern of Mughal jewellery gained immediate
popularity since it was ornate and imperial looking. After the era of the kings
the jewellery was confiscated by the government and is preserved in Indian
museums. The Indian movie ‘Jodhaa Akbar’ told the saga of love between a Mughal
emperor Akbar and a Rajput princess Jodhaa. This film showcased mesmerising jewellery
of the Mughal era which made the Mughal jewellery in demand again. In today’s
time Mughal jewellery is produced with a modern twist but the style of
stonework and enamelling is still included in the design.
History
of Mughal Jewellery
Throughout the Mughal era jewellery trade flourished
without any breaks. The jewellery showed status and position during this era.
The highest ranking officials and emperors wore heavy jewellery with huge
stones and beads. Rajasthan came up as an exclusive hub for jewellery during
the Mughal time. Mughal jewellery was also inspired by Rajput jewellery as
Mughals formed alliances with Rajput rulers and married Rajput princesses.
The
Impact of Mughal Jewellery
Since the Mughals conquered most of India their
style and culture have influenced many regions of North India. The states where
we can find the influence of Mughal jewellery are Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh,
Andhra Pradesh and Orissa. The most notable influence of Mughal jewellery is
the Nizam jewellery of Andhra Pradesh.
Artwork
in Mughal Jewellery
Mughal jewellery in India has become an amalgamation
of intricate Indian designs with Middle Eastern elegance. Floral inspired heavy
stonework and extensive enamelling are the major features of Mughal jewellery.
Gold plated silver was also used to make Mughal jewellery. Large precious and
semi-precious stones are added to Mughal jewellery. Flowers, birds and paisley
are the designs most commonly used in Mughal jewellery technique. In Indian
dialect enamelling is known as meenakari and the stone setting technique is
called jadau. Mughal jewellery technique also included filigree and thewa.
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