Wednesday 2 December 2015

Jewellery of the Mughal Era


In the Mughal era royalty not only promoted food, architecture, clothing, and art they also supported jewellery. It was in this era that jewellery-making had a special importance and was highly supported. This era gave birth to jewellery studded with chunky gemstones and enamelled motif designs. The royal family and people of high ranks displayed their jewellery in turbans to toe-rings. The pattern of Mughal jewellery gained immediate popularity since it was ornate and imperial looking. After the era of the kings the jewellery was confiscated by the government and is preserved in Indian museums. The Indian movie ‘Jodhaa Akbar’ told the saga of love between a Mughal emperor Akbar and a Rajput princess Jodhaa. This film showcased mesmerising jewellery of the Mughal era which made the Mughal jewellery in demand again. In today’s time Mughal jewellery is produced with a modern twist but the style of stonework and enamelling is still included in the design.

History of Mughal Jewellery
Throughout the Mughal era jewellery trade flourished without any breaks. The jewellery showed status and position during this era. The highest ranking officials and emperors wore heavy jewellery with huge stones and beads. Rajasthan came up as an exclusive hub for jewellery during the Mughal time. Mughal jewellery was also inspired by Rajput jewellery as Mughals formed alliances with Rajput rulers and married Rajput princesses.

The Impact of Mughal Jewellery
Since the Mughals conquered most of India their style and culture have influenced many regions of North India. The states where we can find the influence of Mughal jewellery are Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh and Orissa. The most notable influence of Mughal jewellery is the Nizam jewellery of Andhra Pradesh.

Artwork in Mughal Jewellery
Mughal jewellery in India has become an amalgamation of intricate Indian designs with Middle Eastern elegance. Floral inspired heavy stonework and extensive enamelling are the major features of Mughal jewellery. Gold plated silver was also used to make Mughal jewellery. Large precious and semi-precious stones are added to Mughal jewellery. Flowers, birds and paisley are the designs most commonly used in Mughal jewellery technique. In Indian dialect enamelling is known as meenakari and the stone setting technique is called jadau. Mughal jewellery technique also included filigree and thewa.


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