The Creation of a Jewel

It is a well known fact that before it can be used for jewellery gold must pass through the hammers of smiths and fires. This is also true for diamonds which passes through sawing and polishing. A rough diamond is created when a chunk of carbon withstands many million years of pressure. The diamond is then mined, cut and polished to make it a cynosure of everybody’s eyes. It is interesting to know that only around 20 percent of the rough diamonds mined are suitable for use in jewellery. The diamonds which are unsuitable for jewelleries are used in the industrial sector. It is also quite rare to find a diamond of 1 carat or more, only 1 out of 100 weigh 1 carat. This is the reason that the most priceless diamonds are the heaviest in the world.

Diamond Manufacturing Process

A well cut diamond can even take care of a lower colour or clarity. However if the cut is not good the colour or clarity of a good quality stone will appear flawed. Cut is one of the main points which give the diamond its brilliance. The decision on how to cut the rough diamond depends on the natural from or shape of the stone. If the rough diamond is naturally oblong they are made into ovals, marquises or pear shaped. Sometimes the rough diamonds appear in a crystalline shape which is good for princess cuts or square shaped. The process of diamond cutting is a long and difficult process.

The artisans of Surat, India are most famous for diamond processing and learn their trades from previous generations. The process is learnt through constant trial and error and needs tremendous practice. Previously the diamonds were cut in a crude way resembling the outline of octahedral crystals. Then the cuts were upgraded to single cut, table cut, old mine cut, and finally the prevailing brilliant cut. The single cut was invented in 1600s and this cut hinted that increased facets will lead to more brilliance. This helped lay the foundation of the evolution of currently used modern brilliant cut. The presently used brilliant cut has a round outline with a symmetrical triangular and kite-shaped facet. This brilliant cut also has a table on the top with or without a small culet at the bottom.

The diamond cutting process is done through the following steps:

Planning

This is a crucial step where it is decided how the diamond can be cut keeping in mind the natural shape of the diamond. The cut should be done in a way that it should enhance brilliance while encountering minimum loss.

Sawing

Once the plan is finalized on what shape the diamond is going to be it is cut. The axis on which the rough diamond will be cut it also finalized during this process. The cutting is done with saws and cleavers by hand or a diamond tipped rotary saw.

Polishing

Polishing is the final stage of diamond processing. Polishing gives the diamond its lustre and brilliance. The diamonds which are bigger and most probably pricier goes through an additional process of brillianteering. Brillianteering is done to give the ‘hearts & arrows’ effect in round diamonds.